It depends on what one likes. I loved the darker, more realistic tone the season had. I understand it not being for everyone, though. But I would also wager moving from the WB to UPN helped in that shift as well. Buffy's clawing her way out of her grave also harkens back to the first season, when she revealed her nightmare of being buried alive, which ultimately came true this season. I also believe characters beyond Buffy had a lot of development (i.e., Tara and her finding her voice).
I believe that choosing the First as the final big bad was a wise decision. Again, it took them back to the fourth season, when Buffy, Giles, Willow, and Xander all invoked the primordial spirit, which then showed up to them in the form of the First Slayer. Furthermore, tying it into the third season when Angel was confronted by the First (predominantly in the form of Jenny Calendar) was brilliant and a wonderful callback. The seventh season truly embodied the theme of being the Slayer, and that is what I think about when I think of the seventh season. As much as Buffy rebelled against what the Slayer meant to be throughout the series (also hence why Giles was fired -- he became less of a Watcher and more of a father to her), by the seventh, she took it for all it was worth after beginning to learn about it during the fifth season. And they always dropped hints of this with Kendra and Faith and their views of being a Slayer (especially Kendra, who relied upon her Watcher's training during her all-too-brief time on the series).
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